Bonvivant: Berlin’s First Michelin Star Brunch Exceeds Expectations
Full taste and fully vegetarian: Bonvivant is a delight for the senses from the moment you walk through their ebony door into a world of sophisticated merriment. Their Michelin grade brunch paired with a cheeky cocktail or two in pleasant Schöneberg succeeds in luring even the sleepiest Berliner out of bed. Become blissfully full (and gracefully tipsy) at this trailblazing boozy eatery.
From Hollywood Stars to a Michelin Star
In 2019, Bonvivant opened its doors to the public. Jules Winnfield, the German-American owner, worked to create a contemporary version of a cocktail lounge with a nostalgic feel. The intent was for Bonvivant to walk the line of familiarity and refined glamour: a cocktail bar reminiscent of 1960’s pool parties in Old Hollywood, only this time in Schöneberg, Berlin. Their addition of quality shared plates made it so that friends and lovers alike could spend hours catching up over creative classics. This pastime is even more prominent today now that Bonvivant has cleverly evolved into a cocktail bistro, earning a prestigious Michelin star (the first for brunch in Berlin) in the process.
Like Old Hollywood, Bonvivant emulates an aura of possibility. This, combined with their playful personality, praised vegetarian offerings, and understanding of today’s evolved cocktail culture make it one of the most notable restaurants in Berlin’s perpetually thriving food scene. Their fully vegetarian menu is made possible by Nikodemus Berger, their Austrian head chef, and Winnfield, who have both eaten meat free since childhood.
And how did they manage to snag that Michelin star? That, can be credited to their team’s passion and talent, as well as their impressively moreish dishes.
Pancakes and Potatoes: Dynamic Classics Made Better
So what exactly should you order when visiting this acclaimed eatery? The exact offerings will depend on when you visit, as the menu varies depending on the season and time of day. One thing can be said with confidence: it’s going to taste real good. Every dish feels meticulously calculated to showcase a dance of textures and highlight maximum flavor. On top of that, the staff really knows their stuff. They answered every question we had with the ease and the certainty of a community that takes pride in their environment and their guests’ experience.
The kitchen seems to delight in bringing excitement to the most timeless of dishes, while remembering to honor the ingredients at their core. I found myself scratching my head halfway through a side of potatoes served with sesame hollandaise and herbs and thinking, Have potatoes always tasted this good? (Answer: Duh, of course they have! But Bonvivant made me feel like I was trying a potato for the first time). Naturally, potatoes are just the start. Be sure to pay homage to their original concept by sharing plates with your group. It’s the way to do it, as the more you taste, the more you’ll want to try.
We cleaned every plate. Their grilled tomato bread starts with tangy and crunchy fresh bread, which is served under an array of colorful cherry tomatoes that are cooked for a variety of lengths. They’re then intermixed and plated together to draw attention to all their potential finishes. A combination of herbal chimichurri, Italian scamorza, and chili mayo elevate the dish further, once again transforming humble ingredients into the absolute best versions of themselves.
Fancy a short stack of decadent brioche pancakes accompanied by vibrant raspberries and lush caramel, with undertones of white chocolate and currant wood? This delicate stack is easily one of the most beautifully prepared in the city, and the tart raspberry sauce combined with sweet caramel act as yin and yang comrades, bringing the whole dish together with ease.
There will always be a couple of vegan offerings available for fully plant-based guests (although I wouldn’t mind a few more vegan choices on their menu). The Zen Master’s Breakfast Bowl is one of their best inventions: crispy cauliflower and beetroot are served in a bowl with a side of homemade herbal peanut sauce which you can drench over the seasonal vegetables at your leisure. The end result is a rich and flavorful dish that raises the bar in regards to what a plate of vegetables should taste like.
Their Green Shakshuka, also (optionally) plant-based, is skillfully textured, with a smooth balance of soft spinach and peas, plus uber crispy potatoes. It’s a tad less interesting than some of the other plates, but can be boosted in flavor with a modest helping of truffle shavings.
As for the Cocktails?
No need to worry, even with the addition of brunch, their cocktails are an integral part of Bonvivant and here to stay. Their polished menu boasts just a handful of choices, each more intriguing than the last. I ended up trying a gossamer creation that combined the likes of mountain peach, white wine, chai, and vanilla. The chai and vanilla were served in candy floss form atop a blend of wine and peach, making the drink fun and easy to grow fond of.
Now that I take a later pass at the menu I see that there is a cocktail that lists only three ingredients: vodka, strawberry, and goat cheese. Honestly, I might have to return to Bonvivant just to try this. It’s not every day I see a cocktail that includes cheese! If you’re already floundering at the thought of this particular union, need I remind you: this is Bonvivant. If anyone can nail that boozy concoction, it’s them.
Embodying Berlin’s Cultures of Enjoyment and Sustainability
Berlin is a city that values pleasure and enjoyment just as much as individuality and sustainability. Bonvivant embodies this beautifully. The Bonvivant team takes on the social responsibility of presenting their customers with nutrient enriching foods that come at a lower carbon emission. They take the time throughout the year to create seasonally changing menu items that favor local produce and ingredients found within Berlin and Brandenburg. Their palpable dedication, smart ideas, and meat-free offerings have even earned them the first Michelin star awarded to a brunch restaurant in Berlin.
Bonvivant’s name comes from a French word, meaning to live well or living the good life. Their aim is to be a place where people can come together ‘to meet, to enjoy, to be together, and to be curious.’ This hospitality integrated with their memorable innovation and clear expertise gives way to a new standard for quality brunch in Berlin, one that I hope will stick around for years to come.
Bonvivant, etc.
As of December 2023:
Bonvivant Cocktail Bistro is currently open six days a week. They are closed on Mondays, open for dinner (and drinks!) Tuesday through Saturday, and open for brunch (and drinks!) Wednesday through Sunday.
Plates range from €7,50 to €16,00. Cocktails start at €14,00. Espresso based drinks range from €2,50 to €4,00 (oat milk is free of charge, whole milk is an additional €0,50).
Reservations are possible (and encouraged on weekends).
Hours
Mo: Closed
Tu: 18:00-1:00
We: 10:00-15:00, 18:00-1:00
Th: 10:00-15:00, 18:00-1:00
Fr: 10:00-15:00, 18:00-1:00
Sa: 10:00-15:00, 18:00-1:00
Su: 10:00-15:00
Address
Goltzstraße 32, 10781 Berlin Schöneberg
Tickets to Bonvivant’s extravagant New Year’s Eve Dinner are available now.
Disclaimer: I was invited to eat at Bonvivant Cocktail Bistro by their Operations Manager. Opinions are strictly my own.